Hoen-tey, written in Wylie as hon tos in Dzongkha (Bhutanese language), is regarded as one of the indigenous dumplings of Haa and has also been adopted by communities in Paro through long-standing social and cultural connections, including intermarriage, shared agricultural labour, and exchange of agricultural products. As a result, the dumpling is widely regarded as a culinary tradition representing the close relationship between the people of Haa and Paro. It is particularly associated with the lunar New Year celebration known as Lom-ba, observed on the first day of the eleventh month of the Bhutanese lunar calendar. According to local tradition, Haa is known for preparing Hoen-tey using the complete range of traditional ingredients, which are believed to give the dumpling its distinctive flavour.

The principal ingredient is sweet buckwheat flour, locally known as Gye-rey. The flour is kneaded into dough, from which small portions are shaped into cup-like forms using the thumb, creating a deep cavity that is filled with a mixture of dried turnip leaves and other ingredients. Traditionally, the dumplings were prepared in a closed form, while a more contemporary version resembles the ordinary open-folded dumpling and is steamed. The dumplings are cooked until they develop a characteristic dark-brown colour, indicating that they are fully cooked. Beyond Lomba, Hoen-tey is also prepared for Lo-chhoe (annual rituals), festive occasions, religious ceremonies, the reception of special guests, and as gifts and presents. In recent years, its preparation has also become a source of income for some households.

Traditionally, Hoen-tey was not steamed as it is today. In earlier times, the dumplings were boiled in a pot over a fire fuelled by bundles of dried wheat and barley straw. The preparation of the filling relies primarily on dried turnip leaves, locally known as Lom. Turnips are generally cultivated during the sixth lunar month and harvested in the eighth month. After harvesting, the fresh green leaves are carefully selected, chopped into small pieces, sun-dried, and stored for later use. During preparation, the turnip and dried turnip leaves are cooked together, thoroughly washed after cooking, and then mixed with the other ingredients. Similarly, sweet buckwheat is sown in the sixth lunar month and harvested in the eighth month. After harvesting, the crop is left in the field for approximately three days to dry before threshing. The grains are separated from the husks through winnowing and are further sun-dried before being milled into flour. The milled flour is then sieved to remove coarse particles and obtain fine flour suitable for preparing Hoen-tey. These seasonal agricultural practices, along with the knowledge of ingredient preparation and dumpling-making, form an important part of the traditional culinary knowledge associated with the communities of Haa and Paro.

Hoen-tey is a distinctive traditional dumpling associated particularly with the people of Haa and is regarded as an important part of the district’s culinary heritage. Traditionally prepared using sweet buckwheat flour, dried turnip leaves, and locally available ingredients, it reflects the agricultural practices, food preferences, and traditional knowledge of the Haa communities. The preparation of Hoen-tey demonstrates the community’s knowledge of processing and preserving locally grown crops, particularly buckwheat and turnip, and transforming them into nutritious and flavourful food.

Hoen-tey also has important social and cultural value. It is traditionally prepared during Lom-ba, the first day of the eleventh lunar month, as well as during religious rituals, festivals, family gatherings, and other special occasions. It is also served to honoured guests and exchanged among relatives and friends, reflecting values of hospitality, generosity, and social relationships. Its preparation provides an opportunity for elders to teach younger generations the skills, ingredients, techniques, and cultural knowledge associated with the food, thereby supporting intergenerational transmission and continuity of Haa’s culinary heritage.

In recent years, Hoen-tey has also gained popularity beyond Haa and is prepared and sold commercially, particularly in Haa, Paro, and Thimphu. This growing demand provides income opportunities for local households while encouraging practitioners to continue making the traditional food. Thus, Hoen-tey serves not only as a traditional food but also as an expression of community identity, cultural continuity, hospitality, and livelihood, making its documentation and safeguarding important for future generations.

According to Tshering Wangchuk, he learned the art of preparing Hoen-tey by working alongside his parents for many years, through which he gradually mastered the traditional culinary skills. He has developed extensive knowledge of the ingredients, their preparation, the appropriate proportions, and the techniques required to produce authentic, delicious, and well-prepared Hoen-tey for his customers. He takes great satisfaction not only in preserving and practising this traditional culinary art but also in receiving positive feedback from customers who appreciate the taste and quality of his dumplings.

Beyond personal satisfaction and customer appreciation, Tshering Wangchuk recognizes his responsibility to uphold the authenticity of Hoen-tey as an important element of Haa's Intangible Cultural Heritage. At the same time, the growing demand for this traditional delicacy provides him with a sustainable source of income, enabling him to support his family and parents while contributing to the continued practice, preservation, and transmission of Hoen-tey to future generations.

Preparation Process:

1. Knead the Gye-rey phye (sweet buckwheat flour) with water to prepare the dough.
2. Divide the dough into small, equal-sized balls for making either the traditional or modern-style dumplings.
3. Prepare Eun-dho-shey-ni, the traditional method of chopping turnip into small pieces.
4. Finely chop the Lom (dried turnip leaves).
5. Mix the chopped turnip and Lom together.
6. Cook the mixture for approximately 25 minutes.
7. Rinse the cooked turnip mixture thoroughly and place it in a clean container.
8. Finely chop the spring onions.
9. Grind the ginger.
10. Grind the garlic.
11. Grind the small Sichuan pepper.
12. Add chilli powder according to taste.
13. Add a small amount of fermented cheese to enhance the traditional flavour.
14. Add ground perilla seeds.
15. Add ground walnut, if desired.
16. Add warm fresh butter.
17. Finally, add an appropriate amount of salt.
18. Mix all the ingredients thoroughly using a wooden ladle, Zen-cha.

Traditional Method of Making Hoen-tey:

19. Take one of the prepared dough balls.
20. Place it on the left palm and make a hole in the centre using the right thumb. Gradually shape the dough into a deep, cup-like form with an opening that can be closed after filling.
21. Once the hollow is sufficiently deep, place an appropriate amount of the prepared filling inside using a spoon.
22. Carefully close the opening and fold the edges into a rope-like or water-wave pattern. The Hoen-tey is then ready for steaming.

Modern Method of Making Hoen-tey:

23. Take a small portion of the dough and flatten it into a circular shape using a rolling pin.
24. Place an appropriate amount of the prepared filling in the centre.
25. Fold and seal the edges in the shape of a Momo dumpling. The Hoen-tey is then ready for steaming.
Steaming and Serving
26. Boil plain water, meat broth, or bone broth in the base pot of the traditional steamer, known as Mok-tu.
27. Arrange the prepared Hoen-tey in a circular pattern in the steaming basket.
28. Steam until fully cooked. When properly cooked, the buckwheat dough develops a characteristic deep brown colour and firm texture.
29. Prepare E-zey (chilli paste) as an accompaniment. It is commonly served with Hoen-tey to enhance its flavour.

Preparation Tools:

1. Ka-la-zam – A traditional pot used for preparing and steaming Hoen-tey.
2. Zang-zhong – A traditional bowl used for kneading the dough.
3. Thurm – A small tool used for placing the filling into the Hoen-tey.
4. Dril-shing – A rolling pin used for flattening the dough.
5. En-ta – A wooden board used for rolling and shaping the dough.
6. Suma – A traditional mat used for placing the prepared Hoen-tey.
7. Tsi-ku – A traditional mortar and pestle used for grinding ingredients.
8. Ka-ta-la – A knife used for chopping ingredients.
9. Zen-cha – A ladle used for stirring and transferring ingredients during preparation.

Ingredients:

1. Gye-rey phye – Sweet buckwheat flour.
2. Lom – Dried turnip leaves.
3. Eun-dho – Dried grated turnip.
4. Ep-phye – Chilli powder.
5. Thing-ngye – Small Sichuan pepper.
6. Tsha – Salt.
7. Cha-gop – Garlic.
8. Sa-ga – Ginger.
9. Ba-ma-sab – Fresh butter.
10. Zhim-tse – Perilla seeds.
11. Tar-go – Walnut (optional).
12. Gob-dung-chu – Spring onion stalks (optional).
13. Ki-chu-ram – Garlic chives.
14. Yoe-se – Coriander.
15. Zoe-thue – Fermented cheese.
16. E-zhey – Chilli paste.

According to Mr. Tshering Wangchuk, a restaurant owner in Haa town, the people of Haa traditionally reared both highland and lowland livestock as an important part of their livelihoods. In recent years, however, farming has become increasingly important, with communities cultivating cereals such as wheat, barley, sweet buckwheat, and bitter buckwheat, as well as a variety of vegetables for both household consumption and commercial purposes. He further shared that he has been operating his business for the past ten years and has generated significant income through the preparation and sale of the traditional local dumpling, Hoen-tey. His business serves local customers as well as supplies Hoen-tey to Paro and Thimphu, where the dumpling continues to receive considerable demand.


Data collected by: Lopen Tsheringla, Department of Culture and Dzongkha Development. Translated by: Yeshi Lhendup, National Library & Archives of Bhutan